The famed North Shore of Ohau.
It wasn’t big wave season, but it was fun watching the surfers and paddle boarders ride the waves.
I didn’t get a chance to try surfing, but I did do some bodyboarding. It had been a long time since I’d done that and I forgot how much fun it is.
Enjoying the cool water and warm sun as you wait for a wave. Feeling the pull of the water around your legs and the anticipation of that perfect wave building up behind you. And finally the rush as you ride the crest of the wave, right on the edge of toppling over, in towards the beach.
I can’t imagine the excitement of surfing one of the monster waves of the North Shore.